Do oleosomes actually help proteins penetrate the skin?
Yes. Oleosomes are native plant lipid droplets whose surface is biomimetic to the skin's own lipid barrier. When an active protein is fused to the oleosome surface, the carrier integrates with the stratum corneum and delivers the active deeper than the free protein could reach on its own, confirmed in placebo-controlled clinical studies.
Large active proteins, growth factors, enzymes, structural peptides, face the same physical problem in any topical formula: the skin barrier is built to keep them out. The stratum corneum is a thick, lipid-rich, brick-and-mortar layer optimized to block water-soluble molecules. Most growth factors are exactly that.
Oleosomes solve this differently from any synthetic carrier. They are not invented for the skin; they are borrowed from the plant seed that produced the active in the first place.
What exactly is an oleosome? #
An oleosome is the native lipid storage organelle of plant seeds. Its structure is conserved across most oilseed species:
- A spherical core of triacylglycerol oil (~95% by volume)
- A surrounding phospholipid monolayer, not a bilayer
- Anchor proteins called oleosins, embedded in the monolayer with their lipophilic ends dipping into the oil and their hydrophilic ends facing outward
In camelina seeds, oleosomes are typically 0.5–2 µm in diameter and stable for years at room temperature. The seed evolved this structure to store energy without letting it leak or denature , a biological packaging problem identical to what cosmetic formulators face with delicate proteins.
How does a fused protein end up on the oleosome surface? #
The genetic trick is straightforward: link the gene for your active protein to the gene for oleosin, so the seed expresses a single fusion protein. The oleosin portion still inserts into the oleosome monolayer as usual; the fused active protein is dragged along and ends up displayed on the outside, anchored to the droplet by oleosin.
This is different from encapsulation. The active is not inside the oleosome, it is bound to the outside of the carrier, where cells can interact with it. The oleosome stabilizes and delivers the protein; oleosin keeps it attached.
Why does the oleosome get into the skin? #
The stratum corneum is structurally a lipid matrix. The phospholipid surface of an oleosome looks, chemically, like the structures the barrier is built from. Carriers with the right lipid signature can integrate with this matrix instead of being blocked by it, the same principle that makes liposomes effective delivery vehicles, applied with a fully native material.
Three things compound to make this work in practice:
- Recognition, the oleosome surface chemistry is biomimetic to the skin's own lipid scaffold
- Size, at 0.5–2 µm, oleosomes sit in the right range to interact with the stratum corneum without being too small to load active
- Protection, the fused active is stabilized at the carrier surface during transit, instead of degrading in solution
What does the clinical data show? #
The most informative readout is functional: if an oleosome-fused growth factor produces measurable changes at both the barrier (epidermal) and structural (dermal) levels, it had to reach both places to do so. Our placebo-controlled studies on peauvita™, peauforia™, and peaureva™ show exactly that:
| Endpoint | Skin layer | Clinical readout |
|---|---|---|
| Barrier function (TEWL) | Stratum corneum | +15.5% restoration at D14 (Peauforia™) |
| Melanin in hyperpigmentation zones | Basal epidermis | −14.8% at D14 (Peauforia™) |
| Skin firmness | Upper dermis | +21.8% at D14 (Peauvita™) |
| Wrinkle depth | Mid-dermis | −25.5% at D30 (EGF + FGF-2 stack) |
| Hair density | Scalp / hair follicle | +33.6% at D28 (Peaureva™) |
| Anagen / telogen ratio | Dermal papilla | +14.0% at D28 (Peaureva™) |
These endpoints span the full depth of the skin and scalp. They were measured instrumentally, Cutometer, Tewameter, Corneometer, Antera 3D, C-CUBE phototrichogram, by an independent ISO-certified CRO. Full reports available on request.
Oleosomes vs. liposomes vs. nanoemulsions #
| Property | Oleosome | Liposome | Nanoemulsion |
|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Native plant organelle | Synthetic assembly | Synthetic assembly |
| Membrane | Phospholipid monolayer | Phospholipid bilayer | Surfactant film |
| Core | Plant triacylglycerol oil | Aqueous interior | Oil droplet |
| Surface anchoring | Native oleosin | Surface conjugation chemistry | Adsorbed peptides |
| Stability at +25°C | 12+ months | Weeks to months, formula dependent | Weeks to months |
| Manufacturing | Grown in seeds, pressed | Industrial liposome production | High-shear emulsification |
| Animal-derived inputs | None | Possible (some phospholipid sources) | Variable |
Best for / Not ideal for #
- Delivering large recombinant proteins (growth factors, enzymes)
- Topical actives that must reach the dermis or follicle
- Formulas where ambient stability matters (no cold chain)
- Vegan, GMO-free, low-impact ingredient stories
- Combining bioproduction and delivery in one ingredient supply
- Very small molecule actives that already cross skin easily
- Rinse-off products where the carrier is washed away
- Color cosmetics that need clarity (oleosomes are slightly opaque)
- Formulas above 60 °C in processing (lipid carriers prefer cool processing)
Frequently asked questions #
What is an oleosome?
An oleosome is the native lipid storage droplet found in plant seeds. It is a sphere of triacylglycerol oil, surrounded by a phospholipid monolayer, stabilized on the outside by anchor proteins called oleosins. In camelina seeds, oleosomes range from roughly 0.5 to 2 micrometers.
How does an oleosome help a protein penetrate the skin?
The active protein is fused to oleosin and ends up displayed on the surface of the oleosome. The oleosome itself behaves like a biomimetic lipid carrier, its surface chemistry is recognized by the lipid-rich stratum corneum, so it integrates more readily than a free protein and ferries its cargo through the upper barrier.
How deep do oleosome-delivered actives reach?
Penetration depth depends on the active and the formulation. In our clinical studies on peauvita™, peauforia™, and peaureva™, the measured effects span the epidermis and dermis, with TEWL and corneometer changes confirming barrier-level delivery and wrinkle/density changes confirming dermal-level functional activity.
Are oleosomes the same as liposomes?
No. Liposomes are synthetic phospholipid bilayers built around an aqueous core. Oleosomes are native plant structures with an oil core, a phospholipid monolayer, and surface-anchored oleosin proteins. Oleosomes are naturally produced inside seeds, whereas liposomes are assembled in industrial processes.
Are oleosomes GMO?
The oleosome itself is a natural plant structure. In our platform, the recombinant protein fused to oleosin is produced in engineered camelina seeds, but the finished oleosome ingredient is GMO-free under European cosmetic ingredient definitions, since the cosmetic active does not contain modified DNA.
See more on the underlying technology on our platform overview, the currently launched oleosome-delivered actives on our products page, or the full clinical evidence summary.